A former independent town annexed by Paris in 1860, Belleville has long welcomed the capital's newest arrivals: workers in the 19th century, then successive waves of Jewish, Armenian, North African and Chinese immigration throughout the 20th. That history is still visible in the shops along rue de Belleville, giving the neighborhood a character that neither gentrification nor tourism has fully erased.
Parc de Belleville
Opened in 1988 on a 45,000 m² hillside, this park offers one of the most open views over Paris, especially from the Willy Ronis belvedere at the very top. The belvedere's columns carry frescoes by artist Seth depicting children with veiled faces, echoing the neighborhood's diversity, alongside mosaics made with local residents and refreshed on a regular basis.
Rue Dénoyez
A few minutes' walk from Belleville metro station, this 156-meter lane between rue Ramponeau and rue de Belleville is entirely covered in murals that change constantly. Every visit reveals different work, making it one of the most closely followed street art spots in Paris, alongside the 13th arrondissement and Beaubourg.
Rue de Belleville and its shops
The neighborhood's main artery is lined with Asian restaurants, grocery stores and bakeries that reflect successive waves of immigration. It also hosts a food market several mornings a week, among the liveliest and least touristy in eastern Paris.
The view at the end of the day
The Parc de Belleville belvedere takes on a particular light in the late afternoon, with Paris stretching out to the Eiffel Tower on a clear day. It's a good spot to close out the walk before heading down for dinner in the neighborhood. It also features in our roundup of the city's best free viewpoints.
Tips
Allow one to two hours to walk between Parc de Belleville and rue Dénoyez, more if you stop along rue de Belleville's shops. Belleville (lines 2 and 11), Couronnes (line 2) and Pyrénées (line 11) metro stations all offer convenient entry points depending on which direction you're walking. The street art on rue Dénoyez changes constantly: two visits a few months apart can show completely different work. For street art fans, the neighboring Oberkampf-Ménilmontant area rounds out the itinerary well on the same outing.
