A former winegrowers' village left untouched by Haussmann's grand renovation, the Butte-aux-Cailles has kept a layout of narrow lanes and small houses that stands apart from the rest of the 13th arrondissement. The neighborhood is best discovered on foot, over a route of about an hour and a half, taking in Art Nouveau heritage, street art, and a bar scene that comes alive as evening falls.
Starting at Corvisart station
The route naturally begins at the exit of Corvisart metro station (line 6), where a staircase leads straight up onto the hill. From there, a few minutes' walk brings you to the heart of the neighborhood on rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles.
The Butte-aux-Cailles swimming pool
This Art Nouveau pool, a listed historic monument, is turning a hundred years old and remains an active public pool, fed by the same artesian well as the neighborhood's drinking fountain. Open to the public like any Paris municipal pool, its façade and glass roof are worth a look even without going for a swim.
Rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles
The neighborhood's main street holds most of the bars and small restaurants behind its evening reputation. By day the mood here is far calmer, almost village-like, making it a useful landmark for branching off into the surrounding lanes.
La Petite Alsace and Sainte-Anne church
Our dedicated Butte-aux-Cailles guide covers these two neighborhood landmarks in detail, including the artesian-well drinking fountain, ideal for continuing the walk once you've explored the pool area.
The neighborhood's street art
The Butte-aux-Cailles' walls carry numerous street art pieces, including several by recognized artists such as Miss Tic and Jef Aerosol. The Paris Mythique shop on rue des Cinq Diamants serves as an informal landmark for anyone wanting to dig deeper into the subject.
Ending the walk in the evening
After 7pm, rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles and rue des Cinq Diamants fill up around the terraces. This is when the neighborhood really changes character, and a good way to close out the walk before heading back down to the metro.
Tips
Allow an hour and a half for the full walk, more if you extend it with a drink or dinner on site. The neighborhood sits on a hill: wear comfortable shoes, especially if you're combining this with other visits in the 13th on the same day. To pair with other offbeat walks in southern Paris, the Petite Ceinture has an open section nearby in the 13th arrondissement, a good way to extend the outing without heading back to public transit.
