Which address for which mood
| Mood | Addresses | Indicative budget |
|---|---|---|
| Big lively trattoria, pizza and pasta | Pink Mamma (9th), Ober Mamma (11th) | "€€" band on the official site |
| Pizza in the centre or near a museum | Daroco (2nd), Marzo (7th), Ave Pizza Romana (11th) | pizzas from about 13 to 25 € |
| Chef's table for an evening | Passerini (12th), Racines (2nd) | 47 to 71 € à la carte |
The 7 addresses
- Pink Mamma, 20bis rue de Douai, 9th (Pigalle): a four-storey trattoria under a glass roof, wood-fired pizza, truffle pasta, grilled meat. Open every day, 12:00 to 14:15 (16:00 at weekends) and 18:00 to 22:45 (23:00 Thursday to Saturday), according to the official site. Limit: only part of the tables can be booked (parties up to 10), so come early if you have not reserved.
- Ober Mamma, 107 boulevard Richard-Lenoir, 11th (Oberkampf): same group, same spirit, under a glass roof with a tree in the middle of the room. Open daily for lunch and dinner (last service 22:30, 23:00 on Friday and Saturday). Limit: the group keeps some tables for walk-ins but only a few, and parties of 11 to 30 must book.
- Daroco, 6 rue Vivienne, 2nd (Bourse): a trattoria in a former fashion boutique, open 7 days a week from 12:00 to 15:00 and 19:00 to 23:00, with Sunday brunch from 11:00 to 16:00. Margherita at 13 €, antipasti from 10 to 19 € on the menu on its site. Limit: dearer than a neighbourhood pizzeria; Time Out rates the price 3 out of 4.
- Marzo, 5 rue Paul-Louis-Courier, 7th (Saint-Germain, near rue du Bac): antipasti from 7 to 20 €, pizzas from 15 to 22 € according to Le Fooding, a terrace, open every day, 12:00 to 14:30 (12:30 to 15:00 at weekends) and 19:30 to 23:00. Limit: the listing gives no price for main courses, so look at the menu before you come.
- Ave Pizza Romana, 90 rue de la Folie-Méricourt, 11th: a Roman-style pizzeria open every day from 12:00 to 14:30 and 19:00 to 23:00 (23:30 on Friday and Saturday), takeaway possible, a 16 to 35 € range according to Le Fooding. Limit: a neighbourhood address in the 11th, away from the big sights.
- Passerini, 65 rue Traversière, 12th (Bastille, Gare de Lyon): fresh pasta by chef Giovanni Passerini, 26 to 31 € according to Le Fooding, and a weekday lunch menu at 52 €. Closed Sunday and Monday; the official site gives lunch Wednesday to Friday and dinner Tuesday to Saturday, booking on 01 43 42 27 56. Opposite, Passerina (44 rue Traversière) is a wine-and-small-plates bar: plates from 9 to 13 €, open in the evening without reservation Tuesday to Saturday. Limit: the main restaurant books up far in advance.
- Racines, 8 passage des Panoramas, 2nd: an Italian table in a covered passage, 47 to 59 € à la carte, open every day 12:15 to 14:00 and 19:30 to 22:00. Limit: it is the most expensive table in the list, at 47 to 59 € à la carte.
Tips for choosing and booking
- To eat without a reservation, try Pink Mamma, Ober Mamma or Daroco at opening time: the first two keep part of the room free of reservations.
- If you are torn between cuisines on a short stay, a food walk through the Marais lets you taste cheese, charcuterie and wine in a few stops before you pick your dinner.
- Want to make the pasta yourself? See our guide to cooking classes in Paris.
