Which area, which cuisine

Area Addresses Indicative budget
Belleville (11th and 19th) Lao Siam, Le Grand Bol, Chi's Vietfood, Le Cheval d'Or 8.80 to 38 € a dish
Olympiades (13th) Banh Mi 88 under 15 €
Sentier (2nd) and Oberkampf (11th) Mam from Hanoi, Pochana phở at 15.50 €, Thai dishes from 9 to 17 €

The 7 addresses

  • Lao Siam, 49 rue de Belleville, 19th: Laotian and Thai cooking, open for 35 years according to Le Fooding, dishes from 8.80 to 22 €. Open 12:00 to 15:00 and 19:00 to 23:30. Limit: a dimly lit room where you eat shoulder to shoulder.
  • Le Grand Bol, 7 rue de la Présentation, 11th (Belleville): Chinese cooking, à la carte from 14 to 28 €. Open 12:00 to 15:00 (except Tuesday) and 18:30 to 23:00, non-stop on Saturday and Sunday. Limit: the listing mentions challenging dishes, such as fermented carp.
  • Chi's Vietfood, 13 rue Pradier, 19th (Pyrénées): Vietnamese cooking, à la carte from 20 to 28 €. Open 12:00 to 15:00 and 19:00 to 22:00 (except Wednesday), non-stop on Saturday from 12:00 to 22:00, closed Sunday. Limit: phở is served only once a month, by reservation.
  • Le Cheval d'Or, 21 rue de la Villette, 19th (Jourdain): a Chinese table taken over in 2023 by a quartet of chefs; starters from 5 to 21 €, mains from 24 to 38 €, stuffed duck at 55 € for a half. Open in the evening 19:00 to 22:30 and on Sunday 13:00 to 16:00, closed Monday and Tuesday. Limit: dearer than the other Belleville addresses.
  • Banh Mi 88, 88 avenue d'Ivry, 13th (Olympiades): Vietnamese sandwiches and sticky-rice bowls, under 15 €, terrace. Open every day 9:00 to 17:00. Limit: closed in the evening.
  • Mam from Hanoi, 39 rue de Cléry, 2nd (Sentier): Hanoi-style Vietnamese cooking, phở at 15.50-16 €, bún chả at 14.50 €. Open 12:00 to 14:30 and 19:00 to 21:30, closed Sunday. Limit: the listing flags restrictions on Monday and Tuesday, so call before you come.
  • Pochana, 1 passage du Jeu-de-Boules, 11th (Oberkampf): a small Thai table with family recipes, dishes from 9 to 17 €. Open in the evening 18:30 to 22:00, closed Monday and Tuesday, booking through Instagram. Limit: evenings only.

Tips

  • Belleville is the best area to string several addresses together on foot: rue de Belleville and rue de la Présentation are a few minutes apart.
  • To taste several cuisines without choosing blind, a food walk lets you discover a neighbourhood in one outing.
  • To learn to make your own dumplings and noodles, see the cooking classes in Paris.